In 2016 I stood atop Ama Dablam at 6,812m and gazed East. On the horizon standing all alone was a giant of ice and rock, majestic and glowing in the morning sun. This was Kanchenjunga. In the following months I all but became obsessed with this mountain. In 2017 my girlfriend and I spent a month trekking around the the massif, inspecting potential routes. I was moved by the beauty and complexity of the mountain and felt a powerful draw to explore its maze of glaciers and ridges. At that moment, I knew I had to return and attempt to climb. Climbing an 8,000m peak has been a dream of mine for many years, and I can’t think of a more magnificent objective than Kanchenjunga. I then learned that there had only been 2 successful Canadian ascents, which sealed the dealJohn Gill, Team Lead
Kanchenjunga (or Kangchenjunga) is the third highest mountain in the world, sitting at 8,586 m. The first successful summit was on May 25, 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band from the South side. Kanchenjunga sits on the border between Nepal and Sikkim (India), in the North Eastern corner of Nepal. The name means 'Five treasures of high snow' in Tibetan.
In the spring of 2020, a team of Canadian climbers are heading to Kanchenjunga to attempt the original route from the South side, climbing up the Yalung glacier. To date, there have only been 2 successful summits by Canadians (1 by the SW face route), and there has never been a female ascent or a solely Canadian expedition.
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